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200Di Conversions

Serious Series said:
Why is that if the cone is narrower or lower it affects the governer spring lever.
In the tuning document I posted earlier the guy actually states different engines have different diaphragm numbers I believe this is to do with the angles on the cone.
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Because in order for the pin to move it requires boost pressure. Pressure from the turbo moves the diaphragm which moves the pin.
No boost= static pin = no extra fuelling (which you dont need anyway as there is no extra air being fed in!)
 
stevebus said:
Your way out of my league here fella, and when you say Richard I'm assuming Richard Hall, if he doesn't know then I think nobody's going to have much more of an idea, followed him religiously for my first conversion, I'm certainly not going to tell you your wrong, I just can't see the benefits of a turbo powered engine without a turbo.
I love the Mad Max bit that's a belter, bugger the smoke on that one, did it give you more power? but its the diaphragm bit that's giving me anxiety with your plan what's going to lift it, you power up, the turbo creates boost, no turbo where you going, surely your going to be as flat as a pancake, I am truly interested cos if you make it work and get true quality of power I'd be amazed, I've only caught the back end of you post but I will be following from now on,
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OOOoooo loads of benefits of going di.....only benefit having a turbo.....if indeed it is a benefit....it can have better acceleration....at a cost.

But you would not buy an old series Landrover if you where after performance....would you????????????
 
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stevebus said:
Nice one fella, so what exhaust manifold is that and can I take it that you have a special exhaust seeing that it's a conversion
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It's the manifold from a 2.25D. The ports are the right size but the exhaust port spacing doesn't quite line up, it's only a few mm out so I used a Dremel to create a smooth transition for the gas flow. There's a bit of fudging required for some of the bolt holes and these will require clamps to be made.
You can also use a 2.5NAD manifold, the pipes are slightly wider than the Tdi block and the ports match up, but the studs still don't line up.
I have a spare 2.5NAD manifold (as you do!) which I intend to try out one day, so I took a couple of photos of each side against the 200TDi gasket to illustrate.

The exhaust system I used was the "2.25D 2" wide bore stainless system from Rimmer Bros, they are OK (but watch the mandrel bends as some can be a bit dodgy).
There's no reason why you can't keep the original 2.25D pipes, they may look and sound a bit pansy but will give you adequate performance.

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First let me say I'm not disputing that this can be done I'm more asking why, I think a fella put earlier in his first paragraph that a turbo would use more fuel, absolutely not, its was designed in a commercial world to create a fuel economy, obviously not in a racing world but in the everyday world was to create fuel efficiency.
As for the manifold bit, every day is a skool day, who'd of thought you could get that to fit on a tdi motor, i suppose its what your thing is and what your trying to fit, me i was a little further up the land rover generation line and trying to concentrate on getting a tdi motor into a 110, so probably weren't seeing your picture, but looking at your photo of your manifold could you not fit a turbo in there, i know you dont want to but could you? Ive been down the dremmel line and I think it's a must personally, hardly gas flowed but I know it helps.
All joking aside I can see what you've done if you need to experiment anymore and my N/A manifold is any use fella you can have it fella, keep me posted
 
Just an update (2" bore exhaust, re-tuned the fuelling slightly):
I only noticed today how much more torque there is available. 3rd gear is now more useful especially on fast town roads, and it keeps on accelerating!

My next job will be to calibrate the engine RPM speed, I think the MAX revs is set too low at the moment, which ideally gives more scope, but I don't want to do a max road speed test until it's set correctly juuuuust in case.
 
SWBFreeLoader said:
Yeah there is (just) room. On a SWB you get away with it pretty much as is, on a LWB you need to clock the outlet so it doesn't foul the chassis leg.
Or just use the Defender manifold set up with the turbo up high.
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Agreed, not that i can confidently confirm that, Glenn coyne suggests on his website that to fit a disco motor into a 110, 90 or defender you clock the turbo which I did on my first conversion and still my everyday vehicle today, since I've done a couple more and followed the Steve Parkers route on one, not that I bought his parts (to expensive) other than the exhaust manifold bit that's worth a million dollars and very well made, so enough of my waffling but there must be someone making the relevant parts to do it properly and help you to get a bloody TURBO and everything possible
 
Mr Stein said:
Just an update (2" bore exhaust, re-tuned the fuelling slightly):
I only noticed today how much more torque there is available. 3rd gear is now more useful especially on fast town roads, and it keeps on accelerating!

My next job will be to calibrate the engine RPM speed, I think the MAX revs is set too low at the moment, which ideally gives more scope, but I don't want to do a max road speed test until it's set correctly juuuuust in case.
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....I doubt I will ever do a Max road speed test šŸ˜ if it gets over 60mph , that'll do !
 
stevebus said:
Agreed, not that i can confidently confirm that, Glenn coyne suggests on his website that to fit a disco motor into a 110, 90 or defender you clock the turbo which I did on my first conversion and still my everyday vehicle today, since I've done a couple more and followed the Steve Parkers route on one, not that I bought his parts (to expensive) other than the exhaust manifold bit that's worth a million dollars and very well made, so enough of my waffling but there must be someone making the relevant parts to do it properly and help you to get a bloody TURBO and everything possible
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The 200di conversion is economical and reliable, it suits modern driving conditions and it's compassionate with the mechanical limitations of the original Series 3 if you factor in its 50 year old design.
I'm sure most 200di owners would agree this engine has enough poke to propel the vehicle much better than any previous NA engines (and better than the 2.5TD), without it crying out for more power.
It's unfortunate that Land Rover missed the opportunity to continue the NA Gemini project due to market influences in the 4WD sector and the constant re-structuring.

By the way, I still have the turbo, coolers and manifold in the shed.
I used to have a 1990 Defender 200Tdi and still managed to break the gearbox! (granted, it had the early transfer box spline lubrication issues, and had somehow missed the recall.)
 
Mr Stein said:
The 200di conversion is economical and reliable, it suits modern driving conditions and it's compassionate with the mechanical limitations of the original Series 3 if you factor in its 50 year old design.
I'm sure most 200di owners would agree this engine has enough poke to propel the vehicle much better than any previous NA engines (and better than the 2.5TD), without it crying out for more power.
It's unfortunate that Land Rover missed the opportunity to continue the NA Gemini project due to market influences in the 4WD sector and the constant re-structuring.

By the way, I still have the turbo, coolers and manifold in the shed.
I used to have a 1990 Defender 200Tdi and still managed to break the gearbox! (granted, it had the early transfer box spline lubrication issues, and had somehow missed the recall.)
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If your not going to use that turbo and all its bits give me first dibs fella, unless of course your having second thoughts of coursešŸ˜, I'm kidding, but if you do!!!!
 
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