• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Brake troubleshooting

revxboomer

In Third Gear
Hello all,

Trying to chase down some braking issues ahead of the MOT.

When desires the pedal, I get a slight initial braking force (no pedal resistance) that dissipates, with the pedal going to the floor.

If I push hard once it is on the floor it will brake properly, but with little movement of the actual pedal.

I’ve bled the brakes & adjusted the rear drum brakes (1988 110), and installed a new master cylinder.

The weird thing is, even after a full bleed, the pedal still goes to the floor on the first go (albeit with slightly sharper braking force once on the floor). I can ‘pump’ the pedal quickly which gives a nice firm pedal and shortens the travel.

Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
 
I'll be the one to ask...what brand of master cylinder?

If the pedal is going to the floor, and then you get brakes, do you get any better braking pumping the pedal?

If no, then I suspect your problem may be with how the pedal itself is adjusted at the master.

If yes, then you still have air in there. Stomp in it a few times, then bleed again. Or try the magic stick.... (Wedge the pedal down overnight. It works ..godz only know why)
 
You get some weird brake pedal if the servo is leaking.
Either the diaphragm splits and leaks or you get hairline cracks where it attaches to the brake tower.
If its not been replaced since new, then it could be time.
 
If you have new master cylinder,plus the rest of the system in good condition. Then it's got to be, either trapped air or the servo. I always pressure bleed mine,get a friend to connect/disconnect the bottle. Plus keep an eye for any leaks,had brake fluid piss out the top a few times !
 
I had a similar thing but I could be miles away aswell, on your servo where there's a pipe that comes from your vacuum pump there is an 1/2 inch or so 90 degree bend fitted into the servo body, fragile as hell and careful how you remove it, clear the tube and fitting as it can get filled with smeg for want of a better word, if I remember rightly theres something with that fitting that can cause allsorts of disruption for a 2 minute fix, give that a quick look before spending anymore
 
I had a similar thing but I could be miles away aswell, on your servo where there's a pipe that comes from your vacuum pump there is an 1/2 inch or so 90 degree bend fitted into the servo body, fragile as hell and careful how you remove it, clear the tube and fitting as it can get filled with smeg for want of a better word, if I remember rightly theres something with that fitting that can cause allsorts of disruption for a 2 minute fix, give that a quick look before spending anymore
For earlier servos Land Rover used to sell a service kit.
 
Hello all,

Trying to chase down some braking issues ahead of the MOT.

When desires the pedal, I get a slight initial braking force (no pedal resistance) that dissipates, with the pedal going to the floor.

If I push hard once it is on the floor it will brake properly, but with little movement of the actual pedal.

I’ve bled the brakes & adjusted the rear drum brakes (1988 110), and installed a new master cylinder.

The weird thing is, even after a full bleed, the pedal still goes to the floor on the first go (albeit with slightly sharper braking force once on the floor). I can ‘pump’ the pedal quickly which gives a nice firm pedal and shortens the travel.

Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
I would suspect the rear drums adjustment. Clamp the rear flexi and see if it still happens. If it does then clamp the front ones as well if it's the master cylinder seals then you will still get pedal movement as the fluid slips past the seals.
 
Easy test, costs nothing;
Run it to get the vacuum up. Stop the engine. After a minute or so, pull off the vacuum pipe to the servo. If it doesnt go pffft (sucky noise) then you have lost vacuum and need to investigate the servo as it may have a leak/crack.
 
Back
Top Bottom