SeriesG
Offroader
Truer words were never spoken!The problem is, that for every evening that you can do 2 jobs, there are jobs that take two evenings!
Truer words were never spoken!The problem is, that for every evening that you can do 2 jobs, there are jobs that take two evenings!
That is a lovely amount of effort to avoid buying this:Because the hole in the block is 5/16" and the hole through the alternator is 3/8" I needed to make a special rod. I turned a 3" section of a piece of 3/8" diameter steel rod down to 5/16" and die-cut a fine thread on the end. I also die cut a 3/8UNF thread on the other end. For peace of mind I made a lower support bracket from 1 x 1/8" aluminum flatbar to keep the fan belt tension from bending the lower pivot rod. I also turned a 1" long spacer to place the pulleys in line properly. I cut it a touch short so I could adjust the spacing with washers. All of that was done on the fly, taking measurements and trying fit as I went.
Sounds like a nasty experience - sure hope you're feeling better now.Just catching up with the thread after me and the boy being literally laid out by some horrific bug .
Amazing progress @SeriesG .
Just out of interest , I had dreadful trouble with my new clutch slave cylinder on my S3. The as by the book setting caused the clutch to slip slightly on hills. Lots of faffing and I couldnāt get it right until I took it for a drive armed with my homemade āsplitā ring spanner and adjusted , tested on the road , adjusted etc . That worked well and I didnāt have to adjust it again when I switched from 2.25 Diesel to 2.25 Petrol .
That's a pretty nice looking bracket really and likely more rigid than what I've built. It is rather pricey though - almost as much as I paid for the alternator itself. Six of one and half a dozen of the other I suppose.That is a lovely amount of effort to avoid buying this:
Bracket - Alternator (FF013622) for Land Rover Series IIA/III
Famous Four Products are Independent Land Rover Specialists based in Lincolnshire, UK. We provide Genuine and Aftermarket Land Rover Parts and Accessories, Service, Repair and Restoration. Order Online, by email to [email protected] or phone on +44 (0)1507 609444www.famousfour.co.uk
At that price, I can't blame you
Better crack that whip on yourself. Last year I was just doing 'a few jobs' on my MG Midget and before I knew it, it was the end of August!
So do we. I want to hear this thing run already!
Ha! You guys are probably getting tired of hearing me ramble on and on about this idiotic project. It will eventually run and drive I swear!So do we
Ha! It seems that each vehicle has its own set of rules. We've no choice but to work through the bugs one at a time until everything is settled. Such is the fate of those who choose to drive 50+ year old cars!Splendid work! Such creativity as well fabricating mounts for the alternator (wot's one of them?) and tank. I'm trying to remember how I did my clutch, I mean apart from neglecting to set up the 11mm clearance for the release sleeve when I first installed it which made it impossible to correctly set the length of the slave pushrod. I also had a persistent oil leak from the clutch operating mechanism which necessitated removing the gearbox a number of times before I found the source and cause of said leak.
Reminds me, I still have a leak on the speedometer drive housing to fix.
OOOwwwww that's rusty !!Once the rear diff was back in its housing I went about ripping off the brakes and hubs. As anticipated the steel brake lines didn't give up their positions easily and will have to be replaced. Everything else came off alright though and once the excess crud was scraped off, went into a Rubbermaid container full of warm citric acid solution. Hopefully by tomorrow sometime the parts will be ready for final cleaning and a bit of paint. Then I can reassemble and go on to the front axle!
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Looks like the 'fluid' I found in my front axle, not much sign of oil. I take it you have re-used those nylon nuts? not something I like to do myself, but I do understand your lack of supply for parts. I would be tempted to keep an eye on those as you run the vehicle and It might be worth adding those to the shopping list and replace them with new. Just to be on the safe side.So before I could fasten down my radiator I needed to replace the front brake lines. I can do it later but it's easier now. I had bought a cheapo chinese-made double-flaring tool but it proved substandard so I bought another one: it's similar to the one @Big Sandy recommended but was available overnight on Amazon and less expensive so I went for it. It works much better than the china kit. I also quickly turned out a bending mandrel on the lathe from a piece of scrap aluminum. Again the lathe proves handy...
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I ended up making up a new line for the right side but the one to the left side looked really good so I put it back on after cleaning it up. I think it must have been replaced already at some point.
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With the front hard lines taken care of I figured that I aught to work on the wheel bearings and brakes so I have something to hook them up to. I reckoned the rear was the best place to start as it's easier.
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I got to thinking about it and came to the conclusion that I really should pull the diffs while I'm in there. I don't intend to rebuild them at this point unless I have to but I really should check them out at the least just to make sure they aren't going to blow up on me. I pullled the rear axles and drained the remaining crud from the housing. Yes there was water. Not much mind you but it was there. The diff nuts came off fairly easily and with the help of a floor jack I had the diff housing out and onto the floor pretty quickly.
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Surprisingly it looks really good! No broken teeth or gears, no excessive wear, and no rust. Sweet! It needs bearings but not in an "Emergency!" sort of way so I cleaned it up some and pressed a new pinion seal into place. The old one was so bad it's compression spring was outside the seal! Good thing I had a look. I wire-wheeled the nuts and blew them out so I'm not struggling with them when while laying on my back under the vehicle and trying to do four arms worth of work with just two.
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View attachment 530972I then ran a wire brush over the housing studs, scraped, filed, and cleaned the gasket surface, and dobbed the rest of the crud out of the diff sump. I then wiped the housing and the diff gasket surfaces with acetone and applied Permatex "ULTRA Blue" silicone gasket maker onto the housing.
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Again with the help of the floor jack I hoisted the diff assembly into place and fastened it onto the housing. I know it looks much the same as it did in the "before" pic but rest assured it's cleaned, adjusted, and re-sealed. It was a bit of work but I feel better knowing what's going on in there. On to the wheel bearings!
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Maple syrup surely..?I don't know looks like a nice caramel sauce
So before I could fasten down my radiator I needed to replace the front brake lines. I can do it later but it's easier now. I had bought a cheapo chinese-made double-flaring tool but it proved substandard so I bought another one: it's similar to the one @Big Sandy recommended but was available overnight on Amazon and less expensive so I went for it. It works much better than the china kit. I also quickly turned out a bending mandrel on the lathe from a piece of scrap aluminum. Again the lathe proves handy...
View attachment 530963
View attachment 530964
I ended up making up a new line for the right side but the one to the left side looked really good so I put it back on after cleaning it up. I think it must have been replaced already at some point.
View attachment 530965
View attachment 530966
With the front hard lines taken care of I figured that I aught to work on the wheel bearings and brakes so I have something to hook them up to. I reckoned the rear was the best place to start as it's easier.
View attachment 530967
I got to thinking about it and came to the conclusion that I really should pull the diffs while I'm in there. I don't intend to rebuild them at this point unless I have to but I really should check them out at the least just to make sure they aren't going to blow up on me. I pullled the rear axles and drained the remaining crud from the housing. Yes there was water. Not much mind you but it was there. The diff nuts came off fairly easily and with the help of a floor jack I had the diff housing out and onto the floor pretty quickly.
View attachment 530968
View attachment 530969
View attachment 530970
Surprisingly it looks really good! No broken teeth or gears, no excessive wear, and no rust. Sweet! It needs bearings but not in an "Emergency!" sort of way so I cleaned it up some and pressed a new pinion seal into place. The old one was so bad it's compression spring was outside the seal! Good thing I had a look. I wire-wheeled the nuts and blew them out so I'm not struggling with them when while laying on my back under the vehicle and trying to do four arms worth of work with just two.
View attachment 530971
View attachment 530972I then ran a wire brush over the housing studs, scraped, filed, and cleaned the gasket surface, and dobbed the rest of the crud out of the diff sump. I then wiped the housing and the diff gasket surfaces with acetone and applied Permatex "ULTRA Blue" silicone gasket maker onto the housing.
View attachment 530973
Again with the help of the floor jack I hoisted the diff assembly into place and fastened it onto the housing. I know it looks much the same as it did in the "before" pic but rest assured it's cleaned, adjusted, and re-sealed. It was a bit of work but I feel better knowing what's going on in there. On to the wheel bearings!
View attachment 530974
Whatever gets you off I guess.I wire-wheeled the nuts and blew them