I would be very tempted to just clear coat it.
You'll note I haven't said yay or nay, end of day it's your choice!
You'll note I haven't said yay or nay, end of day it's your choice!
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Have i done the right thing?
- Thread starter DH1
- Start date
Photos of the result, Khriss?I roller painted mine after bare metal strip, one coat sand etch primer and roller coated green, looked ok
DH1
Shifting Up
The blast is really light, your right it could be a mistake, but I see it no more inappropriate than a 2 pack acrylic or any modern paint, the colour is the original code for Deep bronze green
DH1
Shifting Up
Goes on really thin, they also do motorcycle mud guards etc, hoping it'll reduce / stop any further galvanic corrosion that's eaten some decent holes in it
This is new to me I didnāt realise you could powder coat the panels ..I had my wheels done probably 5 years ago and still good ā¦interested to see the end result .
Khriss
Accelerating Away
Did this About ten years ago....give it another ten years and I will do it again
or when I can be arsed ..
Attachments
Khriss
Accelerating Away
( @ericbeaumont Iam pretty sure I haven't washed it in ten years neither 
)
An DON'T waste yr money on Nitro mores, it's crap now , go to spray shop an get their aircraft quality stuff - rips paint off !
)An DON'T waste yr money on Nitro mores, it's crap now , go to spray shop an get their aircraft quality stuff - rips paint off !
The magic ingredient is dichloromethane.
Only available 'to professionals' these days. Whatever that means.
I get mine from auto paint places and yes, it will rip paint off...and the linings of your lungs so wear a respirator
whitehillbilly64
Trekker
No paint going on the 80 inch body.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly
Do what you feel you need todo , weāre all different and so is your landy 
We used to restore and respray aircraft. Have never powder coated one. Either 2 pack or base & clear. It's all in the prep. Need to get rid of the Ali corrosion - especially seams and around rivets where you often find spider web type corrosion radiating out from the rivet (once did an aircraft with 33,000 rivets we individually cleaned). If not it will come right back eventually. Vehicles are much simpler, but on Land Rovers you've got steel to contend with - so rust and galvanic corrosion.
As others have mentioned - if the powder coat delaminates from the skin or gets punctured and water starts getting underneath it you could have problems. Is it the best finish for a classic vehicle? Down to personal choice.
True. The paint stripper you use can make a huge difference. Some are highly corrosive and bad for health. Also if you don't get it all out of the seams (can be very difficult on aircraft) it can react with new paint. We used an eco stripper - just spray or brush it on and leave overnight. Add more as required to keep it moist and the reaction going. Don't do it in the cold - warm the atmosphere and metal before applying and keep warm throughout the process - far better results and won't use as much stripper - expensive stuff. We used Socomore Socostrip which is specifically for aluminium. Here is one fuselage part way through.
Can be rinsed down the drain and doesn't react with new paint. We just put plastic sheets down and roll it up afterwards, bag it and put it in the waste. Vehicle will need a bloody good wash down afterwards and time to fully dry (especially seams). Then you are down to individual rivet, bolt heads, nooks & crannies with nylon wheel (not wire) and picks and sanders to get rid of any residual paint. We used to see quite a few bodge jobs where previous paint jobs had flaked/peeled off in sheets - no etch or primer used to cut costs. I don't know what prep you would do to bond a power coat to your car. Without an etch bonded to the skin you may have problems. You can get etch/primer, but if doing a full bare metal respray we always used a specialist aircraft grade etch (and that's what I used on my Defender). Would only ever use a combined etch/primer on a small localised area.
Here is my new tub floor in aircraft etch.
Here are three aircraft - in bare metal, etched & primed and the one at the end was a base and clear coat finish (a complicated scheme with three colours and lots of masking involved). The process is no different for a vehicle.
I don't know if any of this is of use but here is a quick link to the painting part of my restoration (Post No 13 through to No 22)
110 Hard Top Conversion
We bought our Defender a while ago with a view to creating a touring vehicle capable of getting to places a 'fat low down' camper van couldn't reach. Plus we wanted to camp away from traditional sites full of rows and rows of caravans. I'll also be using it as a daily ride. So the brief was...
www.lrukforums.com
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DH1
Shifting Up
Interesting stuff, the primer is specified by the helicopter company so the company doing the work are only allowed to use this specific primer (I'll try find out more info), the job will done in about 4 weeks, I'll put pictures on, I guess only time will tell if it's successful
is it the best finish for a classic vehicle ? Not sure what paint process really fits a classic, as modern paint is nothing like what was originally put on, for me if it looks right when done, then yes, my decision is based on my current defender as the original paint job is pretty poor and already showing oxidation in a few places, so it's a bit of a gamble (fingers crossed)
is it the best finish for a classic vehicle ? Not sure what paint process really fits a classic, as modern paint is nothing like what was originally put on, for me if it looks right when done, then yes, my decision is based on my current defender as the original paint job is pretty poor and already showing oxidation in a few places, so it's a bit of a gamble (fingers crossed)
If you want paint stripper use a thing called starchem synstrip, makes nitromors look like lemonade, under no circumstances get it in your eyes, sorry to say read the instructions, boring I know, and definitely wear gloves, it's murder to paint but kind to the metal, take the gloves off if your going for a pee, after that paint, powder coat or wrap, the world's your jelly bean
robwlondon
Posting Guru
Hitchhiker42, those 33,000 rivets reminded me of one of the worst jobs I ever had to do. A B707 with a lot of stone chips under the fuselage. These were near the end of of their service life and had huge number of hours, they were getting one last overhaul then when the next was due they were flown to the US for scrapping. The bottom of a B707 is only about 4ft off the ground and the job was to wrap both hands in Scotchbright and clean the corrosion off the whole underside. There was no comfortable position so its 5 mins on 5 mins off for 2 days. I have a vague recollection is was "RF". Commercial work is all about keeping the aircraft in the air. The rear floor was corroded under the toilets (as usual) and the proper repair was to cut out the ally angle and riven in new sections. An old had showed my how to do it on these end life planes - he ground the screws to a point, put 2 pack mastic down and nailed the floor panels down.
Yep - it's fun working upside down on a cold concrete floor with crap falling in your hair, nose, mouth & ears, etc. Our aircraft were a lot smaller than your B707. Bottom of fuselage just out of reach - couldn't stand up or lie down completely - whole job done in stress positions (a bit like working on a LandyHitchhiker42, those 33,000 rivets reminded me of one of the worst jobs I ever had to do. A B707 with a lot of stone chips under the fuselage. These were near the end of of their service life and had huge number of hours, they were getting one last overhaul then when the next was due they were flown to the US for scrapping. The bottom of a B707 is only about 4ft off the ground and the job was to wrap both hands in Scotchbright and clean the corrosion off the whole underside. There was no comfortable position so its 5 mins on 5 mins off for 2 days. I have a vague recollection is was "RF". Commercial work is all about keeping the aircraft in the air. The rear floor was corroded under the toilets (as usual) and the proper repair was to cut out the ally angle and riven in new sections. An old had showed my how to do it on these end life planes - he ground the screws to a point, put 2 pack mastic down and nailed the floor panels down.
).That 33k rivet aircraft had a 100 panels - each of which had to be removed and stripped individually. It was on display at Duxford parked next to a Mustang and a Spitfire. Still there I believe - now used for experience flights, etc. We did a cockpit canopy conversion on this aircraft - 1st time ever achieved.
As for grinding screws - a quick story - we know a guy who used to do resprays - ground the heads off all the aluminium rivets to 'get a smooth surface to make it look better'. All the panels popped off - destroyed the aircraft. Went out of business soon after.
robwlondon
Posting Guru
Memories are coming back! BOAC had merged with BEA to become BA and there was a series of colour scheme changes. We were working on the overhaul of a VC10 and the management saw an opportunity to save time by repainting the tail and fin at the same time. They got contractors in to brush on (with brooms) industrial paint stripper onto the tail and fin. We were working on the engines with the cowlings open about 40ft below as the VC10 engines are either side at the rear. Soon great dollops of this stuff was landing on us and it really burned our skin. We walked off the job and went to tea hut and refused to come out until the paint stripping stopped. My first unofficial walk out. The Union were useless and took the management line - it's perfectly safe and they will be careful... We won but what got me was what a stupid idea it was in the first place. This stuff was like a strong(!) version of the old Nitromors and was taking the 2 pack epoxy straight off.
Actually, inhaling dichloromethane fumes can cause your blood vessels to constrict and induce a heart attack, so respirator is an essential. Having said that, I spent weeks stripping paint from the oak panelling in a 17th Century historic building (Victorian vandalism!) and did so inhaling a lot of the stuff and often without gloves. Rubber gloves are required but idiot in charge kept supplying me with nitrile gloves, which melt!The magic ingredient is dichloromethane.
Only available 'to professionals' these days. Whatever that means.
I get mine from auto paint places and yes, it will rip paint off...and the linings of your lungs so wear a respirator
Aye - burns like anything. Fumes bad for you too. The stuff we used just left a white mark on the skin which went off after a while - worked just as well. You don't strip above sensitive equipment without masking it up first - looking after people is optional
We used industrial rubber gloves with sleeves up to the biceps.