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Disco 3 - Remote Fob RF Receiver Replacement - Help & Advice Needed ASAP!!!

C

Cal17

In Second Gear
Hi everyone,

Could do with a bit of guidance please.

I've got a 2008 (57 Reg) Disco 3 HSE, and it's not wanting to let me inside anymore hahaha.

Basically one day it was working fine, the next day it took about 100 tries with the remote key to unlock it. So I thought the battery might just be flat as I haven't drove the LR in a week, took it for a 30min spin, went to lock it and it locked first time. Thought right jobs a gooden it's fixed, but I thought it best to try and unlock the LR again just to make sure. And it took another 100ish tries of pressing the unlock button for it to actually unlock.

So I thought right, my keys gone / going, so went to a key shop to get it looked it. They RF tested it and said the keys absolutely fine, it's putting out a really strong signal for it being a 3rd party copy.

So I was both happy and sad because 1, I didn't need a new key but 2, that meant in my mind the only other thing that it could be would be the RF Receiver.

Then I thought it's not too much of a worry because I know I can lock and unlock the car with the actual key blade by popping that manual lock barrel trim thing off on the passenger side. Tried that with my primary key, and it felt really stiff, like it was seized. So I got my spare key and tried to give it a bit more force and the blade snapped, Think it was on it's way out anyways because I barely put any force into it and it broke. So long story short, the lock barrel is seized as it's probably never been used in 17+ years, and yes I tried many different ways of unseizing it.

So my question to you lovely LR Expert Folk is - I've ordered a new 433Mhz RF Receiver from LR directly, part number YWY500210. Is this a plug and play unit, or will I have to get my key programmed to this new receiver? I've never dealt with anything like this before so any insight will be golden. Also have I ordered the right part for UK LR's? LR themselves weren't too sure as they don't see many Disco 3s anymore.

Like I said, any help is greatly appreciated.

Ta!
 
The RF receiver is just a plug-in unit, but I doubt its the cause of your issue as its clearly receiving and passing on the 'lock' signal. Although the key is transmitting 'something' it doesn't mean it's understood by the car... Do you have a second key?
I'd also suggest programming the LR button to release the tailgate to give you options if you don't have a second key.
To remove the door lock barrel, with the door open, remove the small rubber bung on the side of the door, then, whilst holding the exterior handle in the open position, unfasten the T20 screw until it stops, release the handle and the lock can be withdrawn from the handle assembly.
 
Grolliffe said:
The RF receiver is just a plug-in unit, but I doubt its the cause of your issue as its clearly receiving and passing on the 'lock' signal. Although the key is transmitting 'something' it doesn't mean it's understood by the car... Do you have a second key?
I'd also suggest programming the LR button to release the tailgate to give you options if you don't have a second key.
To remove the door lock barrel, with the door open, remove the small rubber bung on the side of the door, then, whilst holding the exterior handle in the open position, unfasten the T20 screw until it stops, release the handle and the lock can be withdrawn from the handle assembly.
Click to expand...
Hi Grolliffe.

I do have a second key but the buttons are all caved in and don't work.

I honestly don't think it's anything to do with the key itself as it's fairly new, I think less than 12 weeks old. I've only had the car for a month but the previous owner did say he rrecently replaced the key. Plus the key shop I took it too said it was putting out a very strong signal. And to add to that the fact I can unlock the car with the remote fob, it just takes about 100 tries of pressing the unlock button. Although if you know a way of testing it's sending out the correct signal I'm all ears, other than the RF Test that was done on my key I'm not surre what else to do in that regard.

I've been doing a bit of digging and others have had this issue. I've seen some posts saying it could be something to do with a splice on the green & white wires that run to the RF receiver itself may be corroded due to water ingress. I'm going to start taking trim apart to loosen the headline and start testing to see if everything is grounded and has good power going to it. In your exprience do you know of anyone else whom have had this issue? Does what I've described match the issues they were having etc.

I'm not a mechanic, less an electrically minded one, so any insight is so helpful.

Cheers.
 
Cal17 said:
Hi Grolliffe.

I do have a second key but the buttons are all caved in and don't work.

I honestly don't think it's anything to do with the key itself as it's fairly new, I think less than 12 weeks old. I've only had the car for a month but the previous owner did say he rrecently replaced the key. Plus the key shop I took it too said it was putting out a very strong signal. And to add to that the fact I can unlock the car with the remote fob, it just takes about 100 tries of pressing the unlock button. Although if you know a way of testing it's sending out the correct signal I'm all ears, other than the RF Test that was done on my key I'm not surre what else to do in that regard.

I've been doing a bit of digging and others have had this issue. I've seen some posts saying it could be something to do with a splice on the green & white wires that run to the RF receiver itself may be corroded due to water ingress. I'm going to start taking trim apart to loosen the headline and start testing to see if everything is grounded and has good power going to it. In your exprience do you know of anyone else whom have had this issue? Does what I've described match the issues they were having etc.

I'm not a mechanic, less an electrically minded one, so any insight is so helpful.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
Just to further my point on the key, it's been working perfectly until this. It would always unlock 1st time, and lock 1st time.
 
I think if it was water ingress to the harness, you'd be having locking problems. Is the key a genuine key or an 'ebay special'? - or maybe it's an original key that has just had a new casing? Unfortunately there's no easy way of testing the actual output, other than scoping the output of the receiver to check for plausibility. It may be worth cracking the non-working key apart to see if the buttons can be activated 'naked' - if so that will confirm or otherwise the key you're currently using is giving a correctly formed coded signal. Signal strength is no guarantee of a correct message being sent.

I've seen plenty of shonky 'aftermarket' keys do funny things, honestly, I can't remember if there was one with exactly you issue - we never really got involved other than 'replace with genuine, confirm correct operation'.
 
Cal17 said:
Hi Grolliffe.

I do have a second key but the buttons are all caved in and don't work.

I honestly don't think it's anything to do with the key itself as it's fairly new, I think less than 12 weeks old. I've only had the car for a month but the previous owner did say he rrecently replaced the key. Plus the key shop I took it too said it was putting out a very strong signal. And to add to that the fact I can unlock the car with the remote fob, it just takes about 100 tries of pressing the unlock button. Although if you know a way of testing it's sending out the correct signal I'm all ears, other than the RF Test that was done on my key I'm not surre what else to do in that regard.

I've been doing a bit of digging and others have had this issue. I've seen some posts saying it could be something to do with a splice on the green & white wires that run to the RF receiver itself may be corroded due to water ingress. I'm going to start taking trim apart to loosen the headline and start testing to see if everything is grounded and has good power going to it. In your exprience do you know of anyone else whom have had this issue? Does what I've described match the issues they were having etc.

I'm not a mechanic, less an electrically minded one, so any insight is so helpful.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hi

Indeed also heard that with regards to the green wires that are located on the passenger side sill, loom is located under the plastic trim

Found a few pics for u ,where there taken apart, soldered , sleeved , if it’s not this I hope it’s a simple fault to resolve
 

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Grolliffe said:
I've seen plenty of shonky 'aftermarket' keys do funny things, honestly, I can't remember if there was one with exactly you issue - we never really got involved other than 'replace with genuine, confirm correct operation'.
Click to expand...

This would be my first course of action, I have messed about with loads of aftermaket keys and this is the fix half of the time.
 
Grolliffe said:
I think if it was water ingress to the harness, you'd be having locking problems. Is the key a genuine key or an 'ebay special'? - or maybe it's an original key that has just had a new casing? Unfortunately there's no easy way of testing the actual output, other than scoping the output of the receiver to check for plausibility. It may be worth cracking the non-working key apart to see if the buttons can be activated 'naked' - if so that will confirm or otherwise the key you're currently using is giving a correctly formed coded signal. Signal strength is no guarantee of a correct message being sent.

I've seen plenty of shonky 'aftermarket' keys do funny things, honestly, I can't remember if there was one with exactly you issue - we never really got involved other than 'replace with genuine, confirm correct operation'.
Click to expand...
I'm going to assume it's just a recased orginal key, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm going to double check with previous owner. I think I'll get the other broken sparre key I have recased and see if that works, something that needs to be done anyway so why not.

Then it'll just be the case of going through each possible fix in orrder of difficulty to see what works.

My partners brother who's a BMW mechanic said it could even have something to do with the manual door locking barrel being siezed as well. So I've got a health list of prroblem solving to tick off, he says laughing nervously.

Cheers for your help though!
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Indeed also heard that with regards to the green wires that are located on the passenger side sill, loom is located under the plastic trim

Found a few pics for u ,where there taken apart, soldered , sleeved , if it’s not this I hope it’s a simple fault to resolve
Click to expand...
Thanks for the assist, I'll save this as the nuclear option for when undoubtly all my other efforts fail to fix the issue.
 
Grolliffe said:
I think if it was water ingress to the harness, you'd be having locking problems. Is the key a genuine key or an 'ebay special'? - or maybe it's an original key that has just had a new casing? Unfortunately there's no easy way of testing the actual output, other than scoping the output of the receiver to check for plausibility. It may be worth cracking the non-working key apart to see if the buttons can be activated 'naked' - if so that will confirm or otherwise the key you're currently using is giving a correctly formed coded signal. Signal strength is no guarantee of a correct message being sent.

I've seen plenty of shonky 'aftermarket' keys do funny things, honestly, I can't remember if there was one with exactly you issue - we never really got involved other than 'replace with genuine, confirm correct operation'.
Click to expand...
Can I just ask you as well, if I replace the lock barrel with a brand new one, I've seen they come with new key blades, will those blades fit the ignition barrel or will I need a new matching ignition barrel to match the new key blades?

This sounds like a daft question but I'm just sat herre chronically overthinking everything. Cheers!
 
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